We saw war in Warsaw

Sunday 23 September. A fascinating day, wandering through the Old and the New Town historic sections of Warsaw (as far as we can work out the Old Town is about 800 years old and the New Town is only about 600 years old).  The mind-boggling bit comes when you realise that about 90% of this was totally razed on the orders of Hitler after the Warsaw Uprising of August 1944.  In other words, nine out of every ten buildings have been rebuilt since the war, faithfully recreated, based on photographs, drawings and the memories of the inhabitants.  As you walk down the streets and look at what, to us, seem to be historic buildings it is impossible to identify what, if anything, is original.  The restoration is of such a monumental standard that in 1980 UNESCO declared the whole area a world heritage site - the only reconstruction to attain such recognition. One church that we visited, the St Casimir’s Church of the Benedictine Sisters of the Blessed Sacrament, became a hospital (in its crypt) and refuge for Polish combatants during the month-long Uprising and was bombarded by German artillery, resulting in the deaths of 1,000 people.  Photographs outside the church show the extent of the damage. We also came across preparations for a re-enactment of the Warsaw Uprising, an annual event.  There were dozens of participants, all in appropriate period dress as German soldiers or Polish insurgents or civilians, with original weapons and artillery including a German tank, motorcycle sidecar-outfit and artillery including realistic sound effects. The actual site of the re-enactment is adjacent to the Warsaw Uprising Monument, which includes a statue of the Warsaw insurgents emerging from the sewers which they used to move around the occupied city. We also saw the Changing of the Guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, visited a set of steps that Napoleon walked down on a visit to Warsaw, and saw many monuments, mermaid and bear statues – the bear a symbol of good fortune and the mermaid according to legend protects the city and its residents. Despite Poland’s devastating history Warsaw is a thriving, lively and very pretty place filled with street entertainment, cafes and families out enjoying their weekend together. All in all a fascinating – and disturbing – day.

Tomorrow: Our last day in Warsaw.